Landing in Oviedo, Spain: My First Hours in the City of Green Hills and Sidra

kweiquartey
Aug 2
2 min read

Travelers on a Madrid airport moving walkway with a wavy wooden ceiling, orange beams, direction signs, and glass walls. Bright, modern atmosphere. — T4 at Madrid-Barajas Airport

Terminal 4 at Madrid–Barajas isn’t just striking—it’s designed to calm. The wave-like bamboo ceiling, natural light, and color-coded columns guide you intuitively through the space. It’s one of the rare airports built to soothe, not stress.

From Madrid to Oviedo: Racing the Clock

After a mechanical delay leaving Chicago (airlines never quite tell you what “mechanical issue” means), I arrived in Madrid with little time to get to my train to Oviedo. I had booked the last one of the day, departing from Chamartín at 4:50 PM. It was a sweaty rush, but thanks to another delay, this time the train, I made it to my reserved seat five minutes before departure. Had this been Germany, Switzerland, or Sweden, the train would not have waited. But Spain has a different rhythm.

Welcome to Oviedo

With a population of about 220,000, Oviedo is roughly the size of Baton Rouge. But the vibe here couldn’t be more different. Nestled in the lush, mountainous region of Asturias, Oviedo’s weather is cooler and wetter than southern Spain’s arid plains—closer to Ireland than Andalusia.

Map of Spain highlighting cities with red dots; Oviedo is circled in red. Spain is in yellow, bordered by Portugal, France, and Morocco. — Located north, Oviedo's weather is cooler and wetter than the south

Train station with sign reading "Oviedo." A train with red and white stripes visible beneath a blue beam ceiling. Urban setting, no people. — No longer a dream--I’m really here

I arrived around 8:30 PM and dragged my two suitcases—yes, just two—off the train. When people in the U.S. asked if I was shipping things ahead, I’d answer, “Like what?” I believe in traveling light and starting fresh.

My First Abode in Oviedo

I took a local taxi to my Airbnb on Calle Maximiliano Arboleya. Uber doesn’t operate in Oviedo, but alternatives like Free Now, Cabify, or the city’s reliable taxi network work just fine.

My apartment sits on the third floor, accessible via a tiny elevator—very European. It’s modern, clean, and double the size of my Pasadena place at a thousand dollars less per month. Energy-saving features are standard here. A good omen.

Elegant lobby with a large mirror, wooden panels, and a planter with colorful flowers. Bright lighting creates a welcoming ambiance. — The lobby at Calle Maximiliano Arboleya

Dinner at 11 PM: When in Spain...

Famished and jet-lagged, I went hunting for food. In Spain, dinner rarely starts before 9 PM, so finding an open restaurant at 11 wasn’t hard. I’m vegan, but I wasn’t about to die on that hill—not on Day One. I ordered an ensalada mixta, which in Spain comes with tuna and eggs along with the usual greens. Close enough.

Around me, diners laughed and talked into the night—inside the restarant and out on the pavement. Food and drink are secondary to being together, which is the point. That ethos fills the air like perfume.

My First Glimpse of Escanciar

While devouring my salad, I caught my first live demo of escanciar—the Asturian art of pouring sidra (hard cider) from above the head into a glass below the waist, without looking. I haven’t tasted sidra yet—it’s said to be dry and sharp—but the performance itself is worth watching. It aerates the cider and announces: you’re in Asturias now. The art reminds me somewhat of the pouring of mint tea in Morocco.

Escanciar aerates the sidra

Next Steps: Settling Into Life in Oviedo

After dinner, I staggered back to the apartment and crashed hard. The next day would bring exploration beyond the neighborhood. But for now, I needed some restful sleep. The real adventure—living in Oviedo—was just beginning.