The Journey of Santiago: From Pilgrim to Warrior

The Camino Primitivo Begins in Oviedo

Walking through Oviedo, you’ll notice bronze scallop shells set into the pavement. These markers signal the start of the Camino Primitivo, the oldest Camino de Santiago route, dating back to the 9th century. Pilgrims have followed these shells for over a thousand years on their way to Santiago de Compostela. The scallop shell symbolizes humility, simplicity, and the shared journey. This Santiago represents humility, faith, and peace. The Camino was never meant as a march to war, but as a journey inward.

A simple shell in the pavement marks the start of a thousand-year journey

A yellow arrow often accompanies the shell

Santiago the Pilgrim: A Peaceful Guide

Statues in Oviedo, such as the Santiago Peregrino sculpture in La Florida, show him as a humble companion for pilgrims. At first glance, Santiago—the Spanish name for St. James the Apostle—appears as a peaceful pilgrim. He wears a wide-brimmed hat, a cloak, and carries a staff and shell, walking beside travelers.

Santiago Peregrino sculpture in La Florida, Oviedo (Image:Wikipedia)

The shell markers on the street remind us of the Camino’s spiritual roots: a journey of penance and reflection. Santiago is a figure meant to inspire, not to conquer.

In 1987, the Camino, involving multiple routes in Spain, France, and Portugal, was declared the first Cultural Route of the Council of Europe. Since 2013, the Camino has drawn more than 200,000 pilgrims every year, with an annual growth rate of over 10 percent. Pilgrims come mainly on foot and often from nearby cities, requiring several days of walking to reach Santiago.

Ways of St. James in Spain and Europe (Image: Wikipedia)

Santiago Matamoros: From Saint to Slayer

Yet in Oviedo, another Santiago stares back. In the Iglesia de La Manjoya, he appears not as a pilgrim but as Santiago Matamoros—“the Moor-slayer.” With his sword raised and horse trampling Muslims, he is recast as a warrior-saint.

The absurdity is glaring: St. James was executed in Jerusalem in 44 AD (as described in Acts 12:2), centuries before Islam even existed. He could never have fought Muslims. And yet, this image survives. Why?

Another violent warrior representation of Santiago (Image: VigoÉ)

Misappropriating Faith to Justify War

During the Reconquista, Christian Spain needed a divine champion. Churches became propaganda halls, and holy figures were misappropriated to legitimize violence. Santiago was transformed into a crusader, drafted into battles he never fought. He went from saint to slayer. His name was invoked to bless wars, persecutions, and conquests. The peaceful apostle was cynically weaponized—his image twisted to justify bloodshed.

This is more than history; it is a cautionary tale of how religion is bent to political ends.

Oviedo: A City of Contradiction

In one city, both images coexist:

• 🐚 The Pilgrim Santiago — humble and peaceful.

• ⚔️ Santiago Matamoros — violent and vengeful.

  
  

The contrast exposes how shamelessly holy figures can be exploited. In Oviedo, you can see both sides in stone and bronze: the saint who walks beside you, and the slayer conjured to trample others.

The Lesson of Two Santiagos

Today, pilgrims on the Camino Primitivo follow scallop shells westward. You don’t need a guidebook to spot them in Oviedo—backpacks strapped tight, scallop shells dangling, trekking poles clicking on the pavement. They may look modern, but their footsteps trace a route first walked over a thousand years ago.

They follow the pilgrim, not the warrior. Yet the Matamoros image survives as a reminder of how belief can be twisted—how even apostles can be hijacked for power.

Next time you spot a shell in the pavement, remember: the Camino was meant for peace. The warrior-saint is nothing but politics dressed as faith.

The Journey Continues

As I walk this ancient path, I reflect on the duality of Santiago. It’s a journey that invites introspection. The Camino is not just about reaching a destination; it’s about understanding the layers of history and belief that shape our world.

I often wonder how many pilgrims pause to consider these contradictions. Do they see the peaceful Santiago or the warrior? Perhaps both exist within us.

The Camino teaches us to walk with humility. It reminds us that faith can be a powerful force for good, but it can also be twisted for darker purposes.

In the end, the journey is ours to define. Whether we walk in the footsteps of the pilgrim or the slayer, we must choose our path wisely.

(All images by Kwei Quartey unless otherwise stated)

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